Defiant Deadbolt Installation Template
Oxford-/Getty Images Several steps to a full DIY home-security system will stop intruders in their tracks. Fitting a deadbolt is just one of those steps—and it's one of the quickest, easiest, and cheapest DIY home-security projects you can do. With a few basic tools you can finish this project in less than an hour. You'll need an electric drill with a hole saw and spade bits, a combination square, a tape measure, a chisel, screwdrivers, and a pencil. The deadbolt lock set will come with a template to help you with measurements. Be sure to use the correct size drill bits specified in the lock set instructions, though most standard deadbolts require a 2 1/8-inch hole saw for the lock bodies and a 1-inch spade bit for the sliding bolt assembly. Fitting the Deadbolt • Measure and mark at least six inches above the center of the existing door handle.
Atomic Race 412 Manually. 780/785 Deadbolt The 780 series deadbolts offer premium security features including a 6-pin cylinder with pick resistant pins. A B W F Parts in the box Latch “B. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. Cylinder Deadbolt. 1) Prepare the door with a 21/3” face bore and a l” edge boor. Outside Face. 2) Hold deadbolt and turn the bolt end to suit either a 23/8” backset or a 23/4' backset. Bolt Mechanism [2] the door edge. Chisel out the area marked by the face plate to a depth of 5I32”, or until.
• Place the combination square on the edge of the door and draw a perpendicular line through the mark and a few inches beyond. Continue this line around the door edge and across the back of the door, finishing in the same location as the line on the opposite side. • Wrap the paper template provided with the lock set around the edge of the door, making sure its centerline is aligned with the marks on your door. • Use a nail or an awl to mark the centers of the holes for the lock bodies on the front and back of the door and the bolt assembly on the edge of the door.
• Drill out the hole for the lock bodies using the hole saw. Drill halfway through one side, then complete the cut by drilling through the opposite side. This will give you a cleaner finish. Take care to make the drill holes as perpendicular to the face of the door as possible. • Use the spade bit to drill an intersecting hole through the door edge and into the hole for the lock bodies. Again, it's critical that you make the hole as perpendicular to the edge of the door as possible.
• Position the bolt assembly in this hole and trace around the outside of its faceplate with a pencil. • Remove the assembly and chisel out a mortise deep enough that the faceplate sits flush with the door edge. Begin by cutting around the outline of the faceplate and then gradually pare away the mortise.
Tapping the chisel with a mallet or hammer will give you more control over the chisel. You'll need to cut the mortise about 1/4-inch deep. • Once the faceplate fits flush, drill 1/8-inch pilot holes for the screws and then secure the bolt assembly to the door. • Fit the outside lock body in place on the outside of the door and secure the inside lock body using the provided screws. The screws always go on the inside lock body so they can't be undone from the outside. Fitting the Strike Plate • Measure the distance from the back of the door to the outer edge of the bolt assembly's faceplate.
Write this measurement down. You'll need it to locate the strike plate. • Close the door and transfer the centerline marked on the door onto the door jamb. Use the square to continue this line across the face of the door jamb to the door stop. • Using the door stop as a starting point, mark the measurement taken from the bolt assembly's faceplate out toward the edge of the door jamb and along the vertical center line. This is where you'll locate the center of the outer edge of the strike plate.
- - Margin of Error: Exact Most Common Mistakes • Marking wrong location of hole. • Locating new latch at same level as previous strike plate.